Sunday, April 15, 2007

Visita de Amy y Kristin/Amy and Kristin’s Visit

Sunday, April first (April Fool’s Day), Amy and Kristin – my two good friends from Chicago -- landed in Tegucigalpa, Honduras. It took us a little while to get our car (our silver Chevy Aveo), but soon enough we were on the road. Our adventure began with a road trip across the country – destination Sambo Creek.

Sambo Creek is a small Garífuna village about 20 minutes east of La Ceiba on the northern coast. We had a great day driving through the country, listening to our iPods and catching up on eight months of drama, gossip, and stories. We arrived to our hotel in Sambo Creek just before sunset. It was beautiful – called Le Canadien. We checked into our room, had grilled cheese and french fries delivered to our room and went to sleep at a decent hour. The next morning we headed back to La Ceiba to take care of a medical issue Kristin was having. We described all the symptoms to the pharmacists to make sure she received the right medications, and even called our volunteer “enfermera”/nurse back on the ranch. We had a typical Honduran breakfast of baleadas and licuados at the mall and then drove back to Sambo Creek. From there we headed just down the road to Glenda’s Canopy Tour. We were suited up in all our gear and harnesses, got a quick demonstration and run-down and then saddled up on our malnourished horses. My horse was named Palomo, Amy’s horse was named Kurt, and Kristin’s horse was named Marijuanero (Pot Head). The name suited them well because they barely made it up the mountain. At certain points we offered to get off and walk because we felt so bad for our bony, breathless horses. Once we reached the top of the mountain we had a great vista/view of the Caribbean Sea, Cayos Cochinos, and the coastline. We zipped down 13 cables. It was so much fun. I felt like I was on Road Rules zipping through the rainforest treetops. After the 13th cable we reached natural thermal hot springs. The first one was boiling hot (over 400 degrees Fahrenheit!). The closer we got to it, the more it steamed. The hot springs lower down the mountain were cooler (100 degrees) and we were able to soak and relax. We had our guides (I forgot their names again) take our Playboy cover photo underneath a waterfall. Afterwards we just laid there next to the hot springs, relaxing and enjoying our surroundings. The relaxation didn’t last too long though because before long we had to re-suit up and zip down six more cables. This time the guide offered to help me do some tricks. On one cable I went upside-down and another I did the “Superman”. That was fun!! After our exhilarating adventure we went back to the hotel and laid out by the pool for a happy hour. That night we ventured into the Garífuna pueblo and had dinner at a nice restaurant called Kabasá. We enjoyed seafood oceanside.
The next day we had breakfast atop our hotel terrace – eggs, beans, fruit, toast, cheese, yum. We decided we wanted to do something besides just lay by the pool and ocean, so we consulted our Honduras guidebook and headed to La Laguna de Cacao. Our Chevy Aveo braved the dirt, pot-filled roads. When the road ended we were greeted by a handful of locals. Two of them volunteered to be our guides and take us to the beach at the end of the lagoon in their homemade dug-out canoe (for a fee of $30). We agreed and hopped into the canoe, which was docked at an old Colombian movie set. They rowed us out and we spent the afternoon wading in the lagoon and chatting it up with a local girl named Claritza. We were also approached by a guy from Switzerland named Mark. He is living in La Ceiba for a few months working as a doctor in a hospital. We decided that we would meet up in La Ceiba later in the night for drinks and dancing. We had a late lunch at the hotel, napped, showered, and drove into La Ceiba. We indulged in a nice drink at La Quinta Resort in La Ceiba and later met up with Mark at La Palapa. From there we headed to El Monstruo (or something like that), which is a discoteca on the beach. We had some drinks and took turns dancing with a guy from Tegucigalpa named Mario.
The next day we hit the road. We drove through Tela to do some shopping and buy some coconut bread, which Kristin found out is actually a spice called “cardamon”. From Tela we headed to...El Lago de Yajoa, the D&D Brewery; my now-known favorite place in all of Honduras. We had a late lunch and happy hour and were greeted by Kris and her parents who were visiting from Belgium. We hung out, played cards, ate a lot of food, and drank a lot of Bob’s beer.

The following day we did a quick hike in Los Naranjos and then hit the road – leaving tranquil northern Honduras and returning to Tegucigalpa. I gave Amy and Kristin a driving tour of Tegucigalpa and we had a pincho/shish kabob lunch at Los Criollos. Then we headed to the ranch. We went to hogar, and being it was Semana Santa/Holy Week we participated in all the religious activities on the ranch. On Thursday night we went to La Adoración/Adoration, which is like going to a wake for Jesus. On Good Friday we did the stations of the cross, ranch style. The kids acted out all the stations, which was a little creepy.
I took Amy and Kristin on my running trail, which was fun to share with them. Kristin informed me that I am not a “road runner”; I am a “trail runner”, which is something I will now pursue when I return home. Since it was a Friday during lent the ranch was only serving bread and milk for dinner, so we jumped into our car and searched for a local restaurant to have a real dinner. We found a cute, typical place about 10 minutes down the road. Afterwards we had a party back on the ranch in la hortaliza. Amy and Kristin finally got to see La Punta, danced by an ex-pequeño Edwin, me, Max, and Miguel. Kristin even joined in for a bit. It was really funny.


The next day we went and said “adios” to my girls and then we headed to the airport, did some last minute souvenir shopping, and said our goodbyes. This was probably one of the best, most relaxing, with a bit of adventure vacations I have ever had. I am very lucky to have such great friends to have shared it with!

P.S. If you are interested in reading about our vacation from Amy’s perspective, check out her blog: http://mysocalledlifelessons.blogspot.com/

Labels: , ,

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Visita de mi hermana Rita/My sister Rita’s visit

As many of you know from my past blogs, I had to return home for a medical emergency. It turned out to be perfect timing because I was able to catch a flight back to Honduras with Rita (who was nervous to fly alone). When we landed in Honduras we picked up our Chevy Aveo, stopped at the Metro Mall, did some grocery shopping, and then headed to the ranch. We went to hogar where Rita was swarmed by all my girls. By now they had met everyone in my family, except for Rita, so they were pretty comfortable with her and called her “Jennifer Aniston”. No one on the ranch could believe that Rita was my younger sister because she is way taller than me, even though she is six-and-a-half years younger!

We left early the next morning to head to Tela. Kris, Monica, and Tess were already there, so we were going to meet up with them. It was a long drive, but we had the iPod to keep us company and we made a few pit stops to pass the time. A few of these pit stops were to Honduran banks. It turns out that my ATM card stopped working and I was unable to withdraw money. Rita, being the poor college student that she is, only had the cash that she came with, which was not much to get us through the week. So, it was a bit stressful, especially being that it was a Saturday and the banks all close at noon. One bank sent us to another bank, which sent us to another bank...meanwhile, we were trying to make it to Tela in a reasonable amount of time. We finally ended up at a bank in Siguetepeque. By the time we waited in line and our turn was called, they told us that their machine was broken and we would not be able to withdraw cash. Luckily, when we got to Tela, Monica and Kris lent us some cash, which got us through our travels. We stayed in a hotel a block away from the beach called Mar Azul (Blue Sea). It cost us 75 lempiras per person per night (about $4.50). The five of us shared a room. We had to shower out of buckets because there was no running water, they had to wheel in an extra bed, and the ceiling didn’t quite meet up with the wall. It worked though. We went to the beach to catch the last bit of sun, ate freshly macheted coconuts, and had a little happy hour to hold us over until dinner. After our bucket showers we headed out to dinner. We ate at an Italian restaurant. Rita ordered (for the first of many times during the week) camarones al ajillo/garlic shrimp. She loved it! Rita is a pretty picky eater (for example, at McDonald’s and any other place she orders a hamburger, just ketchup), but she loved Honduran food. Crazy that my parents couldn’t eat the food on the ranch, and Anna and Justin refused to drink out of plastic bags, but Rita loved all of it. During dinner we met up with a group of five other Americans who are working in San Pedro Sula. They met up with us later in the night to go dancing. I was able to show Rita a night out in Honduras, northern coast syle. She got to see the Punta...quite a cultural experience. We spent most of the night watching all the locals dance, in awe.

The next morning, the other girls left pretty early to head back to the ranch. Rita and I went to the nearest licuado stand for licuados and coconut bread. I had been told about a beautiful beach not far from Tela, called Miami. It’s a Garífuna village. We asked a few people how to get there and we ventured out of town. Our little Chevy Aveo braved dirt and sandy roads. We drove through several Garífuna villages and even drove across the beach. Finally, about 45 minutes later, we reached Miami. It was a sight to be seen. Miami is a narrow beach with the Caribbean Sea on one side and a lagoon on the other. Lining the beach are palm frond houses. It was beautiful! Immediately when we arrived and parked the car we were approached by two locals telling us they would watch our car. They also offered to take us on a boat ride through the lagoon. We thought we might as well since we drove all the way here. So, we paid the guy 400 lempiras ($15) and hopped into the boat. It was a beautiful ride. We stopped at a lookout, hoping to see monkeys, but we didn’t have any luck. Afterwards, we laid out on the beach and napped. I think we dozed for a little too long, because when we woke up we were fried! Rita especially. We were soooo sun burned! We made our way back into town, bucket showered, and headed to the boardwalk. We did some souvenir shopping and then had a wonderful dinner at Cesar Mariscos. We passed out after a filling three-course meal.

The next morning we had a licuado and coconut bread breakfast and hit the road. Next stop El Lago de Yajoa. For those of you keeping up with my blogs, you now know that el lago is a destination I bring all of my visitors. Rita was no exception. However, we were out of luck in that there was no vacancy at the brewery. Instead we stayed at Agua Azul (Blue Water), which is right on the lake, so it had gorgeous views. Even though we couldn’t stay at the brewery we headed there for lunch. We enjoyed corn dogs, onion rings, beer and brewed pop. Afterwards we went to Pulhapansak, the waterfall park that is just a short drive away. This is now my third time in Pulhapansak. I went once with volunteers and once with my parents. I knew that I wanted to bring Rita here to hike, climb, and jump underneath the waterfall. We found a guide right when we got there named Rafa. He remembered me from the past two times I had been there. He flirted with Rita a lot. We had a great hike into the waterfalls, jumped off low cliffs, swam underneath the falls, and climbed up into the caves. It was great. Afterwards, we hiked above the falls and took a bunch of pictures. That evening we chilled out at Agua Azul. We watched the sunset from the patio, I introduced Rita to anafre (refried beans, cheese, and tortillas in a ceramic pot), we had a huge dinner, and we played gin, Egyptian war, and listened to the iPod. The following day it was time to head back to the ranch. We returned our rental car and I got to show Rita how to “jalón”/hitchike. She had her camera out the entire time taking so many photos. We spent the evening in hogar and went to bed early because the next day I had to work, and Rita came along with me. Since it was the first week of classes, and I am now the only speech-language pathologist on the ranch, I spent my day screening all of Julia’s students (the speech-language pathologist who left in February). Rita hung out, took pictures, and read magazines. We worked in the school and Casa Suyapa. I brought Rita to the cocina/kitchen for lunch, introduced her to employees and ex-pequeños, and we relaxed in the afternoon. One afternoon that Rita was here we made peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for all the girls in my hogar and we brought them to la posa/swimming hole. We had a great time swimming, hanging out, taking pictures, and eating pb&j’s. Some of the girls had never had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich in their entire life, so it was fun to share that with them. The week went by really fast. I think Rita had a good time. I could definitely see her doing something like this when she graduates from college. She may be following in my footsteps to go to Spain next year, we’ll see if she continues in my footsteps to come to Honduras.

Labels: , ,

Sunday, March 04, 2007

Visita de mis padres/My parents visit

Well, life is getting back into a routine on the ranch after my little medical emergency, trip to the United States, and visit from my sister Rita. Now it’s time for me to get caught up on some blog writing. Let me back up to the last week of January when my parents came to visit.

My parents were here from January 22-30. I picked them up at the airport in our 2007 Toyota Corolla, we stopped at the Metro Mall for lunch and to buy groceries, and then we headed to the ranch. We went through their goodie-filled luggage when we arrived to my room. They brought granola bars, trail mix, crackers, cookies, an arm band for my iPod, my Indiana University hoodie, pens for my girls, and Fruit by the Foot. This is all very exciting stuff when you’re living on a ranch in Honduras! We took a little drive around with ranch, accompanied by Digna, and we showed my parents la granja/farm, tías houses, internet café, talleres/workshops, and la cocina/kitchen. My parents settled into their room in el anexo/the annex, and before long it was time to head to hogar. They came with all the loza/plates that they had in their room. My dad’s pockets were full of spoons, forks, and they each brought a bowl and plate. Very funny, because there was pizza for dinner. I told them they were lucky; pizza on the ranch is a good meal. However, I don’t think they agreed. They barely ate anything. My dad told me he was planning on losing weight during his week in Honduras. Plus, watching all the kids eating with their hands, sharing food, etc. wasn’t the most appetizing sight for them. After dinner we headed to the sala/living room, where we set up the iPod, played Blackjack, and listened to the punta (Honduran music). The girls were all over my parents. After hogar we relaxed in Casa Personal with some other volunteers and my parents had their first Honduran beers.

Early the next morning, we headed out…destination Copán. Kris, the art therapist from Belgium, caught a jalón/ride from us. It was a curvy, windy, mountainous seven hour drive. In Honduras there is no direct way to get anywhere; there are only a certain number of paved roads. So, in order to get from point A to point B, you often times have to pass through point D, E, and F first. We finally made it, dropped Kris off at her hotel El Vía Vía, and then we headed to our Hacienda San Lucas. This place was a little piece of Heaven on Earth. Hacienda San Lucas is tucked away on a mountainside overlooking Copán. It is family-owned and has a lot of history. We were welcomed right away by the owner, who told us to not worry about a thing, to get a glass of wine, and to head out and watch the sunset. Sounded good to us! After enjoying the vistas/views, taking some pictures, having a beer, and talking with other visitors, we headed to our room…the Mayan number 12. Everything was candlelit, the bathroom was amazing, and it was very cozy. We showered, relaxed for a bit, and then headed down to dinner, where our table was waiting for us. We enjoyed a great three-course meal and then called it a day.

The next morning we woke up early, went down to our assigned table, had breakfast, and then headed out in a group of tourists to the Ruínas de Copán/Copan ruins. We ended up meeting the mother of Carl, who is a volunteer from Maine. She had been on the ranch and was now doing some traveling with a friend. We met up with our tour guide, Julio, and began our tour of the Mayan ruins. We learned that everything points west to where the sun sets, and that marks the underworld. After touring the ruins, we headed to the bird park. This place was absolutely beautiful. It is owned by an American guy and is a great place to walk trails, see toucans, macaws, eat a good lunch, and go swimming in the river. We also had a coffee and bought some Noni tea. Afterwards, we met up with Kris and did some walking around the town of Copán, bought some souvenirs and had a great dinner at Twisted Tanya’s. After our long, touristy day, it was time to head back to Hacienda San Lucas and pass out. The next morning we had breakfast and then headed out on a walking trail to see Los Sapos/the frogs. These are Mayan ruins on the property of Hacienda San Lucas, where women used to go and give birth. They are actually rocks carved into the shape of frogs. My mom was interested in doing some eco-tourism as well, so this was a good outing. We were offered a trail guide, but we decided we’d be just fine with the little hand-drawn map the hotel had to offer. We found los sapos no problem. It was getting back that turned into the adventure. We ended up off the map (actually heading in the direction where it said NOT to go). On our way we ran into a local girl named Rosa who tried (and succeeded) in selling us crafts made from cornstalks. We made her an offer she couldn’t refuse. She leads us back to the Hacienda San Lucas, we buy her goods. Well, we made it back…all sweaty and gross, but it was a fun little adventure. We showered, packed up our things, and then headed back on the road…destination Tela.

On our way to Tela we stopped at a coffee plantation. At this point, my mom was not handling the terrain so well. She pretty much laid down and slept in the backseat for the majority of the drive. When we arrived in Tela, the weather had taken a turn for the worse. The streets were flooded, it was overcast, and we didn’t have any hotel reservation. We luckily were able to get a room at the Telamar, which is the poshest hotel in all of Honduras if you ask me. I felt like we could’ve been in Cancún. The Telamar is a resort on the Caribbean Sea with three restaurants and two pools. It used to be where the Chiquita banana people lived, so some of the cabins and rooms are renovations of their old houses. Despite our five-star living quarters, the weather definitely impacted our sunning and beaching. That night we decided to head out to dinner. Typical Honduras: right when our food arrives, the power goes out. My mom had ordered a mariscos/seafood soup with claws, shells and all, so there was no way she could eat a thing in the dark! It started raining harder…typical Honduras…that’s all I can say. We looked down the beach and the rest of Tela had electricity, just not the nicest, most expensive hotel where we were staying. Oh well. Maybe tomorrow would bring better weather and better luck.

Not really. The next day was just as overcast, but we still wanted to get our money’s worth. We walked down the beach into town. Because of all the storms and rain, the beach was littered with tons of trash and was not a pretty sight. We braved through it though, made it into the city, and had licuados out of bags. We headed back, accompanied by a group of Garífuna kids selling coconut bread. Even though the weather was crappy, we put on our bathing suits, determined to enjoy what our resort had to offer. We went swimming, went on the water slides, and then decided to call it quits. We attempted to find another hotel to stay in for the night, but everything was booked. So, we enjoyed our last meal in Tela at Cesar Mariscos (yum!) and then hit the road…destination Lago de Yajoa.

By the time we reached el lago, the weather had cleared up and things were lookin good. Bob, the brewer was stuck in Roatán because of the weather, so he wouldn’t be at the brewery until the next day, but that was okay with us. We checked in to our cabaña and then headed right back out to enjoy some brews, dinner, and played Gin. Ahhh, the relaxation of the brewery at el Lago de Yajoa. By far, this is my most favorite place to go in Honduras. The next day was absolutely gorgeous weather wise. We enjoyed blueberry pancakes and fresh squeezed orange juice for breakfast and then we headed out to Puthapansak, a park with a river for swimming and waterfalls. We hiked some trails, took pictures, and my mom and I went swimming in the river. Afterwards, we went back to the brewery, laid out by the pool, played more cards, and just relaxed.
The next morning, Bob met up with us for breakfast, as well as Malcolm the 60-something, bird-watching hippie from England. He showed us his collection of gems, rocks, and Mayan artifacts. Then, back on the road…destination Tegucigalpa.

We stayed at the Honduras Maya Hotel, which is one of the nicest hotels Tegucigalpa has to offer. I have to admit, I was a little nervous about bringing my parents into the city of Tegus, but at the Honduras Maya, you could be anywhere but Tegucigalpa. It is really nice. We were upgraded to an executive suite room on the seventh floor in a corner room, with great views of the city. Who knew Tegucigalpa could look so nice from up here??God, I did not want to leave this place!!! Wireless internet in our room, my bed was so high up I had to jump into it, and floor-to-ceiling windows!! My dad was insistent on staying here because attached to this hotel is a casino. We went down to the bar for happy hour, then down to the restaurant where we had a great meal of cheese fondue and shrimp salad. Then off to push our lempira luck at the casino. We played Blackjack for a few hours. I won 500 lempiras/$25 and my parents each won a little bit I think. Some of the rules were a little bit different from the states, but hey, I won, so I don’t care! Plus, my dad is now able to add Honduran chips to his collection, so he was happy too. The next day we had a great breakfast buffet, did some souvenir shopping, and then headed back to the ranch.

That afternoon, Allana, Mariela, and Sandra went on a hike with my parents and me to the ranch cemetery. Okay, it seems grim, but it is a beautiful walk. We played “I Spy”, sang songs, told jokes, and took pictures. That night was my parents last night. They came with me to hogar one last time, my girls exhausted them, and then it was to bed. The next day I took them to the airport, we had our last meal at Burger King, and they were off. Second group of visitors complete. It was a whirlwind tour of Honduras; we saw and did a lot in a short amount of time. I hope that this trip gives some peace of mind to my parents (especially my dad) for the rest of the time that I am here, and that they can see that even though this is considered a third world country, it has so much to offer in beauty, nature, and culture.

Labels: , , , ,